Meet the rock masters

Cusco was the capital of the Inca empire, which stretched from southern Colombia all the way to the middle of Chile. It was divided into four different sectors, all of them meeting in Cusco. Therefore, it has been a large and important city for centuries. It was home to thirteen different Inca kings, who built large palaces and temples all over the city.

A statue of one of the Inca kings at the main square in Cusco

When the Spanish arrived, they believed that the Inca were pagans, as they had different gods – the sun and the moon – and a strong connection to Pachamamma, mother earth. As a result, the Spaniards destroyed those buildings and placed Catholic churches on top of the remaining foundation walls. These remnants still show the superior masonry techniques of the Inca, who prepared each rock individually, working without mortar.

Catholic churches were built on top of important Inca buildings
The remains of many Inca walls are still present in the architecture of Cusco

To get a better idea of the Inca culture, we took a tour to the “Sacred valley”. In Pisac we encountered the first ruins, located on top of a mountain. There were houses and terraces, which were used for growing all kinds of potatoes and other vegetables. The storage house had many windows and was located on top of the mountain, as it provided for a natural cooling by the wind.

First sight of the “Sacred valley” of the Incas
The ruins of houses and wide terraces at Pisac

More ruins are located in Ollantaytambo. Here, we climbed nearly 150 steps to the top of the hill, where more houses and an important temple of the sun is located. Once again only the foundation walls remain, but it’s still quite impressive. Equally impressive is the system of little canals that run through the old town, bringing running water to every household.

It does rain from time to time, since we’re in the rainy season
The “Temple of the sun” in Ollantaytambo is a perfect example of superb Inca masonry

The last stop of our tour was Chinchero, a small village with more Inca ruins and an ancient Catholic church. However, the village is more known for its handicraft, as most inhabitants work in groups to make colorful ponchos, sweaters, scarfs, table runners and more. They also show, how they clean and split the raw alpaca wool. Afterwards, the yarn is colored with different materials, all natural and organic. The only remaining question is, how they can produce so much that the whole country is full of places, where these textiles can be bought for cheap? The answer might be related to sheep wool, mechanical fabrication and China.

A demonstration of the natural cleaning of alpaca wool in Chinchero
Coloring is also purely natural with different plants and bacteria

The next day we booked another tour to Moray. This is a huge terraced area, which was used by the Inca to experiment with different fruits and vegetables to adapt them to the height of the Andes. They managed to create a micro-climate, where each terrace had an average temperature difference of about 0.5° C to the next terrace. And it gets even better, because the ground works as a natural filter and prevents the basin from getting flooded during the rainy season.

The terraces at Moray had their own micro climate

The other destination of that tour were the salt mines of Maras. Here, a mineral-rich stream is diverted over hundreds of basins, where the water slowly evaporates, leaving the salt behind. They have been used since pre-Inca times and have been extended several times since then.

The salt terraces of Maras have been used and extended for centuries
As a tourist we could walk right into the terraces

Desert rollercoasters

After a week of being in Lima it was time to continue to discover more of Peru. With Nik I boarded the most comfortable bus I’ve been on so far, equipped with almost anything you could ask for: Comfy seats, personal on-board entertainment and good food. It took us a few hours south of Lima to the coastal city of Paracas.

Traveling with “Cruz del Sur” is almost better than by plane
The dark clouds are only gathering at the mountains

The next morning we took a boat cruise to see the two main attractions that Paracas is known for. The first one is a giant chandelier scratched into the desert sand on the sloped coastline. There are different theories on who built it: It could be related to the Nazca lines, but it’s quite far from them; or it could be installed by San Martin, the liberator of Peru and a freemason, as the symbol has different elements that can be found in freemasonry as well.

Riding the speed boat to get to the main attractions of Paracas
It’s still unknown who carved the giant chandelier into the desert floor

The other main attraction is a bit further of the coast. We bounced across the waves in our little speed boat to get to the Ballestas islands, also known as “Poor man’s Galapagos”. However, even if it was quite nice to see all the different birds and many sea lions, I’m sure that the real Galapagos islands are even more impressive.

The Ballestas Islands are home to many birds…
… and sea lions, who prefer to rest on the narrow beaches

After the tour we boarded another bus to get us to Huacachina. This is a tiny village around an oasis. Even though it’s only 4 km out of Ica, it feels like being in the middle of the desert, as it is surrounded by high dunes on all sides. While having a look around, we found another small oasis. This one seemed to be the sewage for the village, as it smelled accordingly and was full of trash. Paradoxically it is located a bit above Huacachina, so that I’m sure that water ends up in the main lake of the oasis.

Huacachina is an oasis surrounded by high dunes
Unfortunately it’s not as paradisiacal as it may seem at first sight

In the afternoon we boarded a large sand-buggy, which took us deeper into the dunes. It was an awesome ride up and down the steep sandy slopes, which felt like a proper rollercoaster ride. Sometimes the dunes were so steep that we couldn’t see the end as we were about to go down. Afterwards we tried some more Sandboarding before driving off to watch the sunset.

Riding the sand-buggy was a lot of fun!
The sunsets close to the Peruvian coast are quite beautiful

We continued the next day and took another bus to get us to Nasca. This city is world famous for its mysterious images scratched into the desert floor thousands of years ago by the Nasca culture. Nobody knows how they managed to create them without aerial view. As they are about 50 m and bigger, it’s best to see them from above in a tiny low flying plane, which meant boarding another half hour of rollercoaster ride, as the air gets a bit rough in the afternoon.

Boarding a tiny airplane for yet another rollercoaster ride
The desert around Nasca is filled with symbols and straight lines

The flight took us on a loop to view 12 of the main figures, including birds, a monkey, a tree, a lizard and a so-called astronaut. There are even more symbols and mysterious straight lines crisscrossing the desert all the way to the horizon. It is believed that the symbols were used for religious ceremonies, as ceramic bowls and human bones were found nearby.

The monkey is clearly visible from above
The lines were not yet discovered when the first highway was built

In the area surrounding Nasca, more archeological sites can be found. We decided to visit a few of them, as we had still some time until our next bus to Cusco was leaving. My favorite was the aqueduct, a series of open wells, which were used by the Nasca people to access an aquifer. That way they were able to farm fruits and vegetables in this desert climate.

This aqueduct made the aquifer accessible for the Nasca people
These lines symbolize textile and wool